Material Histories: Collision: Fashion and Fabrics

We live surrounded by material things. Some are mundane and utilitarian, others exotic objects of desire, but all our belongings have something to say about who we are and how we live. Objects reflect both culture and history. Individually and collectively, they shape our lives, link us to others and connect us to the past. Yet objects are often strangely absent from accounts of past lives. This seminar series aims to unpack some of the stories that objects can tell about the present and about the past.  We also hope to provide a forum for discussion for those of us interested in material histories. We aim to cast the net widely, with no limitations on either time or space.

How does fabric define a designer? Hartnell of Melbourne used expensive French lace in their winning design for the 1963 Gown of the Year, while Jenny Bannister’s use of recycled materials made her a counter-culture rebel! This talk will look at two eras of Melbourne fashion, the 1960s and the emerging youth market demanding modern styles, and the 1970s, a time of experimentation and a turn towards unconventional materials.

First speaker:
Gown of the Year 1963
Jess Curtain, Brighton Historical Society

It took 300 hours and 3,000 pounds to create, the imported French lace stitched by hand and embellished with thousands of glistening beads. Designed by Lorna White for Hartnell of Melbourne, the winning 1963 Gown of the Year is both a stunning work of craftsmanship and a snapshot of a particular time in Melbourne fashion—a time when Flinders Lane was still the bustling heart of Australia’s rag trade, with many businesses owned by Jewish migrant families, and high-end fashion houses were able to splash lavish resources on a single showpiece. But by 1963, a new youth market was emerging, demanding modern and affordable styles, and labels like Hartnell would be forced to adapt.

Second speaker:
Jenny Bannister: punk icon and fashion trailblazer
Dorela Gerardi, Museums Victoria

Jenny Bannister is one of Australia’s most iconic fashion designers. Emerging in the late 1970s, her clothes during this period are marked by material experimentation and a counter-culture rebellion that signify the spirit of the times. From fabric remnants and material detritus, Jenny created clothes that were unconventional, experimental, exuberant, and exciting. Today, Jenny’s early commitment to material reclamation and reuse positions her a trailblazer of upcycled fashion. Critically, her work maintains a powerful resonance in contemporary fashion and its efforts to address the concerns of sustainability in design.

Dorela is currently the Curator, Jenny Bannister Collection at Museums Victoria. She also has extensive experience working as Collections Manager in the museum and local government sectors. Her early career was in fashion and costume design with a focus on creating hand-printed custom pieces.

Material Histories is presented by Old Treasury Building in partnership with Deakin University and Australian Catholic University.

‘Collision: Fashion and Fabrics’ is presented as part of the Melbourne Fashion Week Independent Program.